Ultra-Processed People

I don’t really know where to begin with this one because it’s been a while since I’ve read a book this interdisciplinary and complex. Admittedly, I was a little discouraged in the beginning since the book wasn’t really what I expected and I found it a little technical and thought there was some unnecessary information. However, I got over this initial bump and I am so glad I did.

Chris van Tulleken tackles the issue of ultra-processed foods (UPF), which are characterized by a dissociation between food and its nutrient, softness, flavor enhancement, high energy density, but also intense marketing (the question of how to define UPF comes up in the book as well). He describes what he calls the „three ages of eating“ and shows how rapid the transition to UPF occurred and why this is a problem for our bodies. Moreover, the author explains what most people get wrong when talking about calories and obesity. Essentially, food or energy intake is internally regulated just like many other physiological processes. Gaining and losing weight is therefore much less about exercise or willpower or even the amount of sugar we consume. Instead, van Tulleken argues that eating is much more complex and that ultra-processing disrupts this internal regulatory system. He presents evidence as to why we should think of UPF as addictive substances in order to reduce stigma and develop strategies to better deal with the consequences of high UPF consumption in children and adults alike. Lastly, the author adds yet another layer of complexity by taking into consideration the excessive marketing that is integral to UPF and by pointing out the regulatory loopholes the food industry exploits. For example, he shows how companies are eyeing growing markets in low- and middle-income countries thereby replacing traditional diets and creating public health crises.

Van Tulleken concludes that if we want to empower everyone to make good choices for themselves, then there can be no cooperation between policymakers and scientists/medical professionals on the one hand and the food industry on the other hand. Research should be completely free from influence of industry, which unfortunately isn’t always the case and makes it that much harder to get to the truth and focus on public health as the primary motivator. Another thing I learned while reading is that decent studies about nutrition are really hard to design and conduct, which is even more frustrating since their results can affect policy making. Luckily, the author introduces several people who have shaped the field of food science in the past and present and evaluates the impact of their work.

I’m sure that I didn’t get every aspect of the story van Tulleken is telling in his book, but I definitely walk away with a new perspective on food and the system it’s embedded in. The author’s writing is writing is straightforward yet compassionate, both entertaining and rational.

If you’re someone who is interested in thinking deeply about things that seem normal in our everyday lives, and aren’t deterred by complexity, this one is definitely for you.

Thanks for reading!

Lienne